| |

Mutianyu

ARTIST RESIDENCY CHINA — BEIJING, no. 19

Mutianyu

Begun in 500 BCE, the great wall is actually many walls built at different times with different materials depending on the era and region. (See Peter Hessler and David Spindler). An archaeological survey by China’s State Administration of Cultural Heritage announced in June 2012 the completion of a five year measurement of the wall at 21,196.18 km (13,170.69 miles), more than twice the length of previous estimates.

With Forbidden City being the first recommendation in tourist guidebooks for what to see in Beijing, the Great Wall is a close second. Mutianyu is more dramatic and less crowded than Badaling, the most popular section of wall and half-hour closer to city center. After rejecting public transportation options for being too complicated, I hired a car for an 8 hour contract. The driver, who spoke a little English, met me at 7:15 a.m. for the 90 minute ride.

State sponsored crenelated road barriers signal the destination is near. There is a short walk from the ticket booth through a newly built gauntlet-style outdoor mall fronted by an energetic yet easily brushed off battery of hawkers. Small shops overflow with an unbelievable abundance of tourist junk. A short bus ride takes visitors to a gondola that eliminates what would be an approximately twenty minute steep hike from the parking lot to Tower 14.

The weather was in the mid-90s with limited visibility due to haze that thickened in the afternoon. The first thing I noticed in the wooded mountainous region of the wall was the sound of bird song absent in Beijing.

Mutianyu

crenelated barriers on roads near the wall

Mutianyu

gondola to Tower 14

Mutianyu

looking west

Mutianyu

Mutianyu

Mutianyu

Mutianyu

Mutianyu

Mutianyu

last salesman north of Tower 14

Mutianyu

past the last concession things fall apart

Mutianyu

condition of the wall without renovation  

Mutianyu

tower interior

Mutianyu

return trip looking east

Mutianyu

tower concession stand

Mutianyu

Mutianyu

looking east

Mutianyu

face-off

Mutianyu

My good friends and complete strangers, beautiful women who ask me to have our picture taken together on the Great Wall at Mutianyu. I learned to hand my camera to photographers to have a picture, too.

Mutianyu

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

To see all blog posts in this topic, select tab above marked TRAVELS > CHINA.

Save

Similar Posts

  • | |

    Somewhere in China

    ARTIST RESIDENCY CHINA — ZHEJIANG, no. 31 Except for scant details, my courteous young interpreter Elena had limited knowledge of our location, destination, or itinerary. The adult professors spoke among themselves, merrily enjoying a family-style vacation in the country. They barely looked out the bus windows. Twenty-four hours after leaving Beijing for Shanghai, I was somewhere in China without a map, internet connection, or place name. The verdant scenery that whizzed by was spectacular. Later…

  • | |

    River Towns

    ARTIST RESIDENCY CHINA — ZHOUZHUANG, no. 39 On the second to last day in Shanghai, Wang arranged for me to join a student bus trip to Zhouzhuang, ninety minutes west of Shanghai. Blurry photographs taken through the bus window were washed out even more by the overcast day. In small corners of the images the camera caught people working — on rivers, in fields, and laying tile. They appeared to have stepped directly from the Qingming scroll…

  • | |

    Bus Trip

    ARTIST RESIDENCY CHINA — ZHEJIANG, no. 28 My arrival in Shanghai coincided with a previously scheduled trip of Wang’s colleagues and students from the Shanghai University Architecture and Painting departments. They graciously included me in their plans to view the China Academy of Art Thesis Exhibitions in Hangzhou, the capital of Zhejiang Province, a three hour drive north of Shanghai. We departed with overnight bags in two buses from the university at 7:00 AM. Tinted…

  • | |

    Vanke Dignified Life

    ARTIST RESIDENCY CHINA — HANGZHOU, no. 34 A short distance from the Liangzhu Museum is the Vanke Dignified Life Cultural Village, a retirement zone of residential, hospital, nursing and rehab services, shops, restaurants, an international youth hostel, and 35% green space. The bus dropped us off near the non-denominational church Mei Li Zhou. It was designed by Tsushima Design Studio of Tokyo and built in 2010, not by the Japanese architect Tadao Ando, as my…

  • | |

    Yiheyuan—New Summer Palace, 3

    ARTIST RESIDENCY CHINA — BEIJING, no. 8 The view from the top of Longevity Hill of the roof peak of the Guanyin Buddha Temple would seem to be the natural end of a tour of Yiheyan — New Summer Palace — in Haidian, Beijing. But wait, there’s more. Much more. A series of Indian-style temples stack up and over the ridge descending to the North Gate. At the bottom is Suzhou Market Street, originally built…

  • | |

    Yiheyuan—New Summer Palace, 1

    ARTIST RESIDENCY CHINA — BEIJING, no. 6 All that is absent at Yuanmingyuan, the Old Summer Palace, is present a little further west at Yiheyuan, the New Summer Palace, in Haidian, Beijing. The inadequacy of photography to convey atmosphere and grandeur is demonstrated in nearly every picture of my visit. Photographic flattening and miniaturization obliterates dizzying heights and magisterial transformations of space. Each set of interior and outdoor rooms spills into the next with unbelievable…