| |

Yiheyuan—New Summer Palace, 1

ARTIST RESIDENCY CHINA — BEIJING, no. 6

New Summer Palace

All that is absent at Yuanmingyuan, the Old Summer Palace, is present a little further west at Yiheyuan, the New Summer Palace, in Haidian, Beijing. The inadequacy of photography to convey atmosphere and grandeur is demonstrated in nearly every picture of my visit. Photographic flattening and miniaturization obliterates dizzying heights and magisterial transformations of space. Each set of interior and outdoor rooms spills into the next with unbelievable charm and complexity. The enormous property had been the exclusive enclave of a tiny feudal elite class. Rebuilt by Empress Dowager Cixi after the catastrophe of 1860, it was opened to the public in 1924. Thousands of visitors trample the grounds daily, kept somewhat in check by ubiquitous railings, continuously posing for and taking millions of photographs and videos. The phrase “rolling in her grave” took ten minutes to explain to my patient guide.

New Summer Palace

Qilin

New Summer Palace

New Summer Palace

New Summer Palace

New Summer Palace

New Summer Palace

New Summer Palace

New Summer Palace

Yiheyuan

New Summer Palace

New Summer Palace

New Summer Palace

New Summer Palace

Yiheyuan

a very large stone that caused so many problems it is called “unlucky”

New Summer Palace

New Summer Palace

calligraphy in the artist’s courtyard

New Summer Palace

an artist painting the marble boat

New Summer Palace

marble boat that does not float, for moon festival parties

New Summer Palace

New Summer Palace

New Summer Palace

New Summer Palace

guard’s gate

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

To see all blog posts in this topic, select tab above marked TRAVELS > CHINA.

Save

Save

Similar Posts

  • | |

    Paint & Paper

    ARTIST RESIDENCY CHINA — BEIJING, no. 1 The perennial question of what to pack for a month-long artist residency: how much paint and paper is enough, too much, or not enough. It is especially difficult with air travel and customs. Artist George Nick said, “Pack like Liz Taylor — bring everything.” Travel guru Rick Steves said, “Pack light — no one ever wishes their bags were heavier.” Seven days till departure, many choices. Don’t touch…

  • | |

    Somewhere in China

    ARTIST RESIDENCY CHINA — ZHEJIANG, no. 31 Except for scant details, my courteous young interpreter Elena had limited knowledge of our location, destination, or itinerary. The adult professors spoke among themselves, merrily enjoying a family-style vacation in the country. They barely looked out the bus windows. Twenty-four hours after leaving Beijing for Shanghai, I was somewhere in China without a map, internet connection, or place name. The verdant scenery that whizzed by was spectacular. Later…

  • | |

    Confucius Temple & Guozijian

    ARTIST RESIDENCY CHINA — BEIJING, no. 11 Confucius, first teacher and moralist, lived 551–479 BC without power or status. The temple compound built to venerate him in Beijing and its neighbor the Guozijian, Imperial Academy are a short walk from the Yonghegong, Tibetan Buddhist Lamasery. Begun in 1287, the Confucius Temple functioned officially until the end of feudal rule in 1911. The grueling civil service examination system at the Guozijian, gatekeeper of upward mobility, ended…

  • | |

    Liangzhu Museum

    ARTIST RESIDENCY CHINA — HANGZHOU, no. 33 Hangzhou is known as “a paradise on earth” for its picturesque wonders. The threadbare hotel we stayed in must once have been elegant, its broad marble stairway having since been roped off. Photographs were prohibited inside. Elena and I shared a spartan room on the second floor. I slept well despite the smell of cigarettes and street noise coming through the window we opened to move the air….

  • | |

    Haidian

    ARTIST RESIDENCY CHINA — BEIJING, no. 3 The artist residency I am attending is located in the Haidian district of Beijing. The museum is across from a corporate office park on a short road that leads to a small village. People walk up and down the road to and from the village all day. — to the village — from the village — village poultry shop — catching a nap while reading and waiting for…

  • | |

    Houhai Hutong

    ARTIST RESIDENCY CHINA — BEIJING, no. 24 Beihai North subway station entrance was the first place I stepped outside in the city the first week in Beijing on my way to art openings further down the line. Across the street an imposing antique building made me wonder what it was. Plastic wrapped young women sold tours in the rain. Identically hatted tourist teams disappeared into worryingly maze-like narrow alleys. On the last day after a…